Types of Training

By far the best book on climbing training I have "read" is Planificacion del Entrenamiento en Escalada Deportiva by David Macia.  I say "read" because I don't speak Spanish but I was able to sift through the book pretty well.  Macia has trained some very successful climbers such as Ramon Julian, Yuji Hirayama, and Edu Marin.  Throughout the book the word resistance is used for power endurance and he has a good way of organizing the different facets of physical training for climbing.

1.  Short Power:  This is 1-4 move power.  Best trained with short boulder problems, the campus board, and single hangs.

2.  Long Power:  This is 5-12 move power.  Best trained with longer boulder problems, short bouldery sport routes, the campus board, and maximum repeaters.

3.  Short Resistance:  This is 12-30 move power endurance.  Best trained with boulder problem intervals, short sustained sport routes, campus board power endurance, and repeaters.

4. Long Resistance:  This is 30-60 move power endurance.  Best trained with timed intervals on a climbing wall, longer sport routes, and super repeaters.

5.  Endurance:   This is 60+ move endurance.  This type of endurance is not that useful because rarely are there climbs with more than 60 hard moves in a row.  The biggest reason to train this type of endurance is learning how to rest on a jug.  Once you know how to rest, "Long Resistance" will get you between the jugs.  I have trained this in the past with intervals of 8 minutes of continuous climbing separated by 1/2 mile runs.  This type of training is probably good once every week or two if you climb long routes, any more and you will throw out any power you've ever had.

Carryover


There will be carryover from one category to another, but this is probably different for each person.  My experience is reflected in the following graph(the numbers don't really mean anything other than scaling):

So if you read the chart you see training endurance gives you a "-50" in power and "+25" in long resistance and etc.  In my experience training endurance helps your long term power endurance a little but hurts everything else.  This analysis is most applicable to systematic training and falls apart in the case of someone climbing for skill acquisition.

For the early spring Rumney seasonI have had good success training short power, long power, and short resistance and letting carryover take care of the rest.  For my upcoming trip to the Red I've been training everything except endurance with less focus on short power than normal.