First of all which hangboard to I use. I started out with the Revolution "Hovah", then moved to a Moon Board, then I used a combination of the two plus a single small campus rung. Now and for the foreseeable future I'll be using the Beastmaker 2000.
When I do a a hangboard workout I use five main grips.
- Back 2: ring and pinky finger.
- Front 2: index and middle finger.
- Middle 2: middle and ring finger.
- Half Crimp
- Sloper
Repeaters:
This is the main workout described on the Beastmaker website. 1 set of repeaters consists of hanging for 7 seconds, resting for 3 seconds, and repeating 7 times. Between each set I rest 2 minutes. I order the grips as follows:
- Back 2 (7s+3s)x7, rest 2 minutes
- Front 2 (7s+3s)x7, rest 2 minutes
- Middle 2 (7s+3s)x7, rest 2 minutes
- Half Crimp (7s+3s)x7, rest 2 minutes
- Sloper (7s+3s)x7, rest 2 minutes
I'll do two rounds of repeaters per workout with some one arm pull-up work between(to be described later). If I make it through all 7 "reps" in a given grip during a workout I'll add 2 or 3 extra pounds the next workout. If I fail before the 5th rep I'll subtract weight next time. This is the hardest of all the fingerboard workouts I do.
Maximum Repeaters:
These are performed the same as repeaters except there are only 4 "reps" per set, and I rest 3 minutes between sets. This allows for more resistance in the form of more added weight, the use of a worse hold, or hanging with only one arm(with a pulley system for assistance). I order the grips like this(with notes how I increase resistance):
- Back 2 (7s+3s)x4(smaller hold), rest 3 minutes
- Front 2 (7s+3s)x4(smaller hold), rest 3 minutes
- Middle 2 (7s+3s)x4(more weight), rest 3 minutes
- Half Crimp (7s+3s)x4(one arm), rest 3 minutes
- Sloper (7s+3s)x4(one arm), rest 3 minutes
As above I'll do two rounds of these with some one arm pull ups between. If I make it through 4 "reps" in any grip I'll add 2 or 3 pounds next time. If I fail on the 1st or 2nd hang I subtract weight.
Single Hangs
These are well named. I do 3 single hangs in every grip type with as much rest between as needed. Here I use enough resistance to fail within 5 seconds. I order the grips as follows(with increased resistance):
- Middle 2 (small sloping pockets)
- Front 2 (with more weight)
- Back 2 (1 arm)
- Half Crimp(1 arm and smaller holds)
- Sloper(45 degree sloper: HARD)
Sometimes I add mono work to the single hang day. Currently only index finger monos, but in the past I've done middle and ring fingers too. If I perform any hang for 7 seconds I add more resistance to the next hang. I'll only do one round of this during the workout.
In upcoming posts I'll discuss my one arm pull up workouts , there are three of these that fit in with the three fingerboard workouts, campus board workouts, bouldering wall workouts, cross training, and how I train while climbing outside(bouldering and routes).
I have a read a bunch of stuff on training, and nearly all of them suggest using microcycles within the larger cycle (Climb 80% one week, 90% the next, etc.). The metolius program suggests that you should end your training cycle at best climbing season (Early Fall-Early Winter)and resume training once the "peak" cycle is over. Do you use the cycles? Or just train year round?
ReplyDeleteAlso, many training websites suggest only crimping open-handed, be it on the wall or on the hangboard, while trainging. It makes sense, open-handed means less strain on the tendons as well as improving your full crimp strength.
The Robot has a very impressive workout schedule and routine. No Doubt. My question is this...for the sport of climbing where strength to weight ratio is the key component to climbing hard, is it possible to workout too much.
ReplyDeleteObviously, finger strength is never going to hold you back because you can't gain weight on your fingers or much on your forearms. But what about Back, shoulders and chest, which can hold a ton of muscle mass?
Ben and I were having this discussion about the Robot's hugeness and the fact that you are trying to drop a few pounds (from where I don't know) before you go after China Beach.
Most of the best climbers (in the US anyway) are fairly light or tall and lanky. I would say Sharma is the only one with a huge upper body, the rest are just ripped beyond belief.
So, what do you think? Can the weight of too much muscle make progression more difficult?
The discussion of cycles (for which I use "daily undulating periodization" and let the several 1-3 week trips I take each year break up the training) will be written after I outline everything I do.
ReplyDeleteAs for the crimping I use the half crimp in this picture:
http://usa.moonclimbing.com/campus-boarding-c-334_351.html
I strive to never put my thumb over my index finger on plastic, I get on to Ben when he does.
As for body mass, I think it probably is important to be light. I've lost ~7 or 8 pounds since arkansas and just had a crazy day of repeats on the carriage road, and I was only stopped by cold not tiredness. I've calculated that at 7% body fat (which I read somewhere was "best" for climbing) I'll be 150lbs, which for my height: 5'10'', you can't really call "huge". Also I do rep ranges on all big muscle exercises that focus on strength not hypertrophy.
I agree with adam. Most professional climbers maintain an incredibly built physique on usually skinny and small bodies. Daniel Woods for example is jacked, but he's isn't very tall or "big" for that matter.
ReplyDeleteLuckily robot is made of carbon fiber which is known for its incredible strength and unmatched lightness, and he cannot build muscle, so he doesn't have much to worry about.
Another point is that most of the cycles I see online involve some sort of "rest" cycle where little to no climbing is done. I believe it is important to have these rest periods as muscle is only grown when not being used. Training is the break down of muscle, so when it is rebuilt it will be stronger.
Does the robot take rests?
Holy Cow! 150 at 5'10" and your physique? I'm 145 and 5'7" and you are much bigger than I. You MUST be made of Carbon Fiber.
ReplyDeletewell, right now i'm 156, but the goal for sport climbing weight is 150. i also measured 5'9" at my last physical.
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ReplyDelete@weekendbouldering: All of the details your asking about are coming in future post.
ReplyDeleteOK Robot, to make this more applicable to the regular masses... How about where you started. Obviously, to reach this level you didn't just roll out of bed and do a one arm, one finger. Since I am close to twice your age, I am certainly more prone to injury if I tried this. Impressive, none the less.
ReplyDeleteAs for climbing weight... consider John Dunne. I am going to say to use caution dieting. I have found that your body has a 'natural' weight. If you lose weight, your body takes this as a crisis. You may end up actually gaining weight because your body will want to store more for the next drought.
I believe this workout is scalable to most everyone. Just add longer rests between sets and use bigger holds, no weight, and possibly the two 3finger teams instead of three 2finger teams . I'm not advocating people use the amount of weight or the holds I have listed in the charts on this page.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing the post about Beastmaker 2000. I am really happy to visit this post. It is a very informative post for me. Thanks for sharing this.
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I read your blog on daily basis. This is really great and informative post. Thanks for sharing.
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