Summer 2010 Goals and Schedule

I'm on a rest day in the Red River Gorge right now, staying here.  I've decided to take it easy for our two week trip to give my body some down time and hopefully finish healing my finger.  This is slightly frustrating but not too bad seeing as the conditions are not great.
I'm working on a post on periodization but until it's ready I thought I'd share my training plans and goals for the summer.


1. Active rest(May 1 - May 22): I would have rather done this some other time but my finger conspired against me.  The first of these weeks I played around with some of the exercises which will become my goals for the summer.  The second two are spent climbing at the red.  The intention is to climb 2 or more number grades below my hardest redpoint.


2.  Rock Climbing and Cross Training(May 22 - June 24):  I should emphasize during this portion I plan to climb on actual rocks.  I consider this to be not as effective for training versus climbing on plastic, but the idea is to ease my finger into functionality.  Assuming the weather cooperates this gives me 10 days at Rumney to do some climbs I have been ignoring and four days bouldering.  Here is the schedule


Monday: rest(maybe easy bike ride or run) 
Tuesday: Rumney
Wednesday: Rumney
Thursday:  AM:  Fingerboard(maximum repeaters), one arm pull up pyramids, strength.

                        PM:  Metcon

Friday: AM: 8x500m rowing intervals

           PM: 4x1/2 mile run.
Saturday: Bouldering, weighted one arm pull up pyramid.
Sunday:  AM: Fingerboard(maximum hangs), one arm pull ups on holds, strength.

             PM: 2000m row and 1 mile run. Metcon.

All of the finger board work will be open handed(not even 1/2 crimp) focusing on one arm hangs on bigger holds.  

3.  Adaptation to Serious Training(June 25-July 5) This is a transition from training for my non-climbing goals to a more serious training for climbing.  I'll test my current level by doing a couple of finger board sets as listed here, and revisit the campus board and my bouldering wall. 

4.  Training(July 6 - August 10) This is the hottest part of the year and thus best for focusing on training and not actual climbing.  I plan to follow this approximate schedule:

Monday: AM:  Repeaters and one arm pull-up pyramids.

             PM:  Campus board power endurance.

Tuesday: AM: Metcon

              PM: Timed climbing intervals.

Wednesday:  AM: Maximum Repeaters and one arm pull-up pyramids plus.

                    PM:  Campus board maximum efforts, bouldering.

Thursday:  AM: Maximum Hangs and one arm pull-ups on holds.

                PM: Metcon 

Friday:  rest or easy bike ride/run.

Saturday:  Rumney

Sunday:  Rumney

5.  Rifle, CO(August 11-August 27)  Earlier this year 6 weeks the above training program gave me the fitness to send China Beach so if everything goes well I should have pretty good fitness for this trip.  

Goals:

Here is a list of my non-climbing related goals for the summer.  

Rowing: 2000m: under 7:00(best so far 7:24)

            1000m: under 3:20(best so far 3:29)

             500m: under 1:30(best so far 1:37)

Running:  mile: under 6:00

             800m: under 2:30

             400m: under 1:00

Strength:  iron cross

               front lever pull up(I can do this straddled now)

               one arm standing ab wheel

               one arm pull up +20lbs(I've done one +10lbs).

The n-tuple Training Notation

In the last post I introduced a new notation for organizing training distribution.  Here I would like to expand on this idea.  First we need a few definitions.

Definition 1:  An n-tuple is an order collection of n numbers.  Ex: (1,3,5,2) is a 4-tuple.
Definition 2:  A positive rational partition of 1 into n parts is an n-tuple whose sum of entries is 1.  Ex (1/2,3/4,0,1/4) is a partition of 1 into 4 parts.
Definition 3:  A training n-tuple is a partition of 1 into n parts in which each entry represents the portion of training time spent on a single type of training.

Examples of Training n-tuples:


There are training n-tuples of size 0 and 1 that aren't that useful so we'll start with larger sizes.  A training tuple of size 2 (or ordered pair) could have entries representing strength/power and endurance(including "resistance" as discussed before).

Example 1:  (1,0) represents only training strength and power
                     (1/2,1/2) represents equal time spent on strength and endurance.

There are a few useful examples of training 3-tuples(triples).  A climbing only training triple would involve (strength, power endurance(resistance), endurance).  A triple could also include cross training: (strength, endurance, cross training).

Example 2:  (1/4,1/2,1/4) represents one quarter of training time spent on strength and endurance and one half of the time spend on resistance(for the triple of type 1).
                     (2/5,1/2,1/10) represents 2/5 on strength, 1/2 on endurance, and 1/10 on cross training.

One can create arbitrary training n-tuples by ordering the entries from the least to most number of moves, then adding cross training at the end.  A version of the training 5-tuple was discussed last time.  The largest useful training n-tuple I can imagine would be the training 8-tuple:

(c1,c2,c3,c4,c5,x1,x2,x3)

c1:  Short power

c2:  Long Power

c3:  Short Resistance

c4:  Long Resistance

c5:  Endurance

x1:  Cross Training: Strength

x2:  Cross Training: Metabolic Conditioning

x3:  Cross Training: Endurance

Creation of smaller training n-tuples from this 8-tuple can be done by combining some of the above types of training or leaving them out all together.  If I were teaching a course in climbing training I would assign you, the reader, to create 5 different training n-tuples(leave them in the comments if you like).  

Why?

Some of this is for sure overkill, but if there is anything I've learned from studying math is to take an idea and extend it to its logical conclusion.  Later we will explore a periodized training schedule taking advantage of training n-tuples.